No gentleman would be seen without a cravat. To reveal the bare neck would be scandalous and ruin a gentleman’s reputation. The cravat was not only a necessity, it was a fashion statement. The more complicated the fold, the more fashionable the gentleman. Knot styles changed yearly as dandies created a new tying design that might win them favour. Some remained popular for years.

In 1818, a pamphlet was published called Neckclothitania that illustrated some of the most popular of the time, including tying instructions. In 1828, a new text was published called The Art of Tying the Cravat by H. Le Blanc that featured sixteen lessons and styles, along with a lovely history of cravats and tying styles. Thanks to Project Gutenberg, we can view the full text here: https://www.gutenberg.org/files/58166/58166-h/58166-h.htm or you can purchase the book from an archival bookshop.

At its most basic, a cravat is little more than a strip of cloth, heavily starched and ironed to avoid wrinkling. Connoisseurs of fashion would own a variety, some of thinner fabric, some thicker, some longer or shorter, some a rectangular cut, some triangular, some square, etc. One would fold it over, then wrap it about the neck, and begin tying the knot of choice at the throat. The most discerning dandies (and those with means) would go through dozens of cravats in a single dressing as they tried to fold a flawless knot. One error could wrinkle the linen.

Cravat, neckcloth, and tie are all synonymous. Depending on the timing during the Georgian era, it could be worn with a frilled shirt, a stiff stock, a folded stock, no stock, a plain shirt, or otherwise.

The styles differed mostly on these points:

• The method of tying (knot, fold, wrap, etc.)

• The crease/dent/fold number, location, and length

• The fabric used, such as muslin vs Kashmere vs linen

A few fun points mentioned in “The Art of Tying the Cravat” from Jane Austen’s World:

A cravat could be of any colour to match one’s ensemble, but a preference for white was established during the Regency, not changing back to colour options until 1818.

Starting in 1815, the change in terms occurred, with “tie” being used more frequently than “cravat.”

Some of the most popular styles:

• The Oriental—stiff, severe, formal, creaseless

• The Mathematical—less formal with three intentional creases

• The American—similar to The Mathematical but only with two creases, neither of which extend to the ear

• The Irish—similar to The Mathematical but only with two creases, both of which are above the junction rather than below

• The Trone d’Amour—most austere, extremely stiff, only one crease in the middle

• The Osbaldeston—a perfect summer knot, as it wraps only once around the neck rather than twice

• The Horse Collar—vulgar with a significant crease in the middle, making it look like a collar

• The Napoleon—a pretty design with a languid look

• The Ballroom—no knot, fastened like a Napoleon, with the creases of both the Mathematical and the Irish

• The Hunting—two diagonal creases, no horizontal creases, knotted with a Gordian or folded like a Napoleon or Ballroom

• The Mailcoach or Waterfall—uses a half knot, then a fold over to hide the knot to allow the linen to drape over the waistcoat; takes a long and wide linen to accomplish or substituted with a shawl

• The Maharatta or Nabob—fine muslin neckcloth only, chain-link wrapping style in front, then fastened behind the neck

There are other styles, not just these, such as the Barrel Knot or the half-Windsor Knot.  

One of the most thorough explorations you’ll find comes to us from Mr. Philip Eton (or Tigerpetri on IG) on his blog Regency Gentleman, which looks at both the neckcloth and the stock and how those two work together and change as we move from the 18th to the 19th century, such as the folded stock vs the stiff points, and so forth:

https://regencygentleman.wordpress.com/2016/06/04/cravats-and-stocks-regency-neckwear/

A fantastic post on cravat folding and styles is from Tea in a Teacup: https://teainateacup.wordpress.com/2012/06/02/my-mr-knightley-tying-a-cravat/

To learn how to tie a Regency cravat, including 5 different knots, Pinsent Tailoring’s YouTube video is a must to view: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q4jQnMRsBSU